The Ultimate Guide to Blank T-Shirt Weights and Fabrics

Why Fabric Specs Actually Matter

When you're buying blank apparel, the specs on the product page — "4.2 oz, 100% airlume combed and ring-spun cotton" — look like marketing speak. But these numbers tell you exactly how a shirt will feel, how it'll wear after 50 washes, and how well it'll take a print. Once you understand them, you'll never buy blind again.

Understanding Fabric Weight (oz/yd²)

Fabric weight is measured in ounces per square yard. It's the single biggest factor in how a shirt feels in your hand.

Lightweight: 3.5–4.5 oz

Shirts in this range are noticeably thin and breathable. They drape well and feel "flowy" — great for hot climates, athletic wear, and fashion contexts where a drapey silhouette is desirable. The tradeoff: they can show skin through the fabric (especially in white), and heavy plastisol ink fills can feel disproportionately heavy on a light fabric.

Example: Bella Canvas 3001 (4.2 oz), Next Level 3600 (4.3 oz)

Best for: Fashion retail, summer apparel, lightweight everyday wear.

Mid-Weight: 5.0–5.5 oz

The sweet spot for most custom apparel. Heavy enough to feel substantial, light enough to wear comfortably year-round. This weight holds ink well, resists shrinkage moderately, and has been the industry standard for decades.

Example: Gildan 5000 (5.3 oz), Gildan Softstyle 64000 (4.5 oz runs heavier than its weight suggests due to construction)

Best for: General custom merchandise, school shirts, corporate wear, high-volume print runs.

Heavyweight: 6.0+ oz

Premium weight shirts that feel thick and durable. The extra fabric weight creates a more luxurious hand feel and holds ink exceptionally well. Garment-dyed styles in this range (like Comfort Colors) have an added softness from the dye process despite the heavier weight.

Example: Comfort Colors 1717 (6.1 oz)

Best for: Streetwear, premium retail, garment-dyed styles, cold-weather basics.

Cotton Types: What the Labels Mean

100% Cotton (Carded Open-End)

The most basic cotton construction. Fibers are straightened but not as refined as ring-spun options. This produces a slightly rougher texture. It's durable and affordable — Gildan 5000 uses this construction.

Pros: Cost-effective, durable, holds plastisol ink well. Cons: Rougher texture, more prone to pilling over time.

Ring-Spun Cotton

In ring-spun construction, the cotton fibers are twisted together into a fine, strong yarn before weaving. This produces a noticeably softer fabric compared to carded cotton, with better durability and less pilling.

Pros: Softer hand feel, better durability, improved print surface. Cons: Slightly higher cost than carded cotton.

Combed and Ring-Spun Cotton

A step beyond ring-spun: the fibers are combed to remove short fibers and impurities before spinning. The result is an even smoother, more consistent yarn and fabric surface. Bella Canvas's "airlume" cotton is a premium version of this process.

Pros: Exceptionally smooth, excellent print surface, minimal pilling, premium feel. Cons: Higher cost.

Pre-Shrunk Cotton

Most modern blanks are pre-shrunk, meaning they've been treated or washed to minimize further shrinkage during normal laundry cycles. Even pre-shrunk cotton will shrink 3–5% — this matters for sizing recommendations.

Fabric Blends Explained

100% Cotton

Best ink absorption, most breathable, no static, slightly more shrinkage potential. Standard choice for screen printing and DTG.

50/50 Cotton-Polyester

Classic blend (think vintage Hanes). More wrinkle and shrink resistant than 100% cotton, but water-based inks can have slightly less vibrancy. Still widely used for corporate and promotional merchandise.

CVC (Chief Value Cotton) — usually 60/40 or similar

A cotton-dominant blend that's typically 60% cotton, 40% polyester. The poly content adds shrink resistance and durability while keeping a mostly-cotton feel. Great for high-wash-cycle applications.

Tri-Blend (Cotton/Poly/Rayon)

Very popular in fashion retail. The rayon adds a slight sheen and drape that makes the fabric feel luxury-tier. Prints look great, but these shirts typically require more care when laundering. Vintage-look prints work beautifully on tri-blends.

Jersey vs. Interlock

• Jersey knit: Single-knit construction. Stretches in one direction. The standard for most t-shirts.
• Interlock: Double-knit. Stretches in both directions, has a smoother face, and is heavier. Often used in polo shirts and athletic wear.

The Shrinkage Reality

Here's what to expect after 10+ wash/dry cycles:

Fabric	Expected Shrinkage
100% cotton, not pre-washed	5–8%
100% cotton, pre-shrunk	3–5%
Garment-dyed (Comfort Colors)	1–2% (pre-washed at factory)
50/50 blend	2–3%
CVC blend	1–2%
Tri-blend	1–3%

Choosing the Right Blank for Your Application

Application	Recommended Weight	Recommended Fabric
High-detail screen print	4.2–5.3 oz	Combed ring-spun cotton
DTG printing	4.2–5.3 oz	100% cotton (best), CVC (ok)
Wholesale/promotional	5.0–5.5 oz	Ring-spun or standard cotton
Streetwear brand	5.5–6.5 oz	Ring-spun or garment-dyed
Athletic/performance	4.0–5.0 oz	Moisture-wicking poly or CVC
Everyday retail	4.2–5.3 oz	Combed ring-spun or CVC

Shopping at Get Custom

We stock the blanks that consistently perform best across these categories. Browse our full product catalog filtered by brand, weight, and material, or build a bundle to get the best per-shirt pricing on your next order.